Wednesday, February 14, 2007

A Different Type of Stitching

After all the historically focused stitching and deadline stitching of the last couple months, I am taking a short break. Yes I need to do my column which will be on Interlace, but I've got a couple weeks to get it done.

As you know I've been playing with quilting. Crazy quilting in particular. I am coordinating the visit of Sharon Boggins from In a Minute Ago when she comes to the San Francisco Bay Area in June 2008. As part of this I am working with a quilt shop - Always Quilting. Before Sharon's class we will need to have had a series of how to build a block classes, something the store does on a regular basis, and some basic embroidery classes. So some how I'm teaching basics for Redwork next week. To that end, I'm stitching a butterfly. I'm using some of the Dinky Dyes overdyed silk threads which are always a joy to use. I'm doing stem/outline stitch in single and double threads, satin stitch, and will do a bit of back stitch too. I'm thinking of doing a series of butterflys like a redwork quilt, but we will have to see if time permits.

I am also doing a teacher exchange with the smocking guild the following week. Need to redesign my basic blackwork handout and remind myself of its historical application to smocking (need that patter or is that blather).

Then as if I don't have enough on my plate, at the EGA region meeting our workshop coordinator handed out a "Petite Project" with a challenge to bring it back to the June meeting. It is pulled and drawnwork. The instructions are lousy, but I can figure out what they want done. She handed out Jobelin fabric and pearl cotton. I'm using the fabric (blech!), but since I had some of the Dinky Dyes cottons handy... I've had a series of nasty colds so stitching something brainless has been good therapy.

I am supposed to receive the pre-work for the England trip class in the next couple weeks as well. Then since my column deadline is while I'm away, I need to get that column done asap as well. Meanwhile back to writing up the instructions for joining the kneeling carpets. It should have been done last month, but it is hard to think with a head cold.

On a Valentine's note, my honey wants us to go to the Cyprian's Ball this weekend so he can "pick me up". Every one say "ahhhhhhh". Lots of waltzing, hope the head is clear by then.

Friday, February 09, 2007

Threaded Thoughts

A couple of people have commented on my comments about choosing a thread for the background of the Elizabethan pincushion - so here goes.

My research shows that it was a metal thread used for the background whether it was tent or straight gobelin or encrouching gobelin. The comments from people who have received training at the Royal School suggested 371 (gold) for doing plaited braid stitches and something finer for background stitches. 340 (gold) and 345 (silver) are finer and supposedly about the correct diameter for the stitching. 371 is too stiff for stitching, but that is what makes it good for doing the braided stitches. 340/345 would probably work for an encrouching gobelin stitch because of the layering of the thread would create sufficient coverage. It didn't work for straight gobelin on 36 count linen.

The swete bags historically were anywhere from 28 to 42 count; versus slips in wool around 25 count. I chose 36 count because single thread of silk in tent covers nicely.

So back to the search for the best metal thread. Passing was the right diameter but like the 371 it was too stiff. The Indian version of 345 was also too fine. I tried the silver DMC floss which provided better coverage, but still not sufficient. It probably would be useable if you used an additional thread - 4 instead of the normal 3 twist. The Kreinik very fine braid worked to cover adequately. It isn't real metal thread, but it got the job done and has the right look.

Friday, January 26, 2007

As promised - catching up and pics (long)

Life is finally calming down to the usual speed of fast (versus the recent marathon of autoban speedway) so I'm taking a quick break to catch up with my blogging.

12th Night was rushed but went very well. I was able to enjoy and participate in a friends laureling (more on that later), the Arachne's Web display went well thanks to Caiterina who sat table most of the day, the Guild Leader installation in court went smoothly, 5 pieces of kneeling carpet were turned in, and the Golden Poppy/Kingdom Artisan ceremony went smoothly (and my personal token is lovely). One unexpected nice thing happened, the husband was made a Man at Arms to the Knight who is currently Princess of the Mists. This is sort of a step toward squiring - a testing period for both. All in all it was a long day.

Sunday I was up early to go to Phillipa Turnbull's crewelwork class at Needle in a Haystack in Alameda. Phillipa is the one arranging the class in England in May with Jane Lemon and Jacqui Carey - Make an Elizabethan Swete Bag . Yes I'm going as are a couple friends.

Managed to make it through most of the Oerthan Trip before getting sick. Taught 2 classes on Sunday anyway. I've blogged over on LJ if you are interested on more of the details -- Stitching Along with Friends. In short it was a lovely trip.

Now for the backlog of pics and descriptions:

Bodice front for 12th Night - the gown is a cranach style gown in gold silk brocade trim on brick red velvet (a nice rich heavy cotton velvet). Since last year I did The Sleeve (see Archive for this blog - January 2006) to commemorate my stepping up into the Order of the Golden Poppy, I decided to do this bodice front to commemorate my completion of the year as Kingdom Artisan.


Next up was completing the leaf for Christian's Laureling cloak. Her laurel gathered some friends to make leaves for the laurel wreath on the back of her personal cloak. The ideas was to partially cover the silk (provided with shape delineated) in the technique of your choice. I opted for pearls and silver metal thread couched in a period pattern in the style of the work done on the Palermo robes.


Lastly I completed a project started several years ago. Linn Skinner charted for me a geometric pattern from Quentel's pattern book (1527) and a blackwork leaf pattern with verse space from Jobin's patten book (1596). The verse Vida Brevis Ars Longa (translates roughly to Life is Short, Art Lives/Survives) is how I signed my self for the 2 years I was Kingdom Arts Minister.

The plan was to do a bodice front similar to the gown in the Portrait of Barbara Schellenberger by Hans Bergkmair the Elder – 1501. While I wore the gown to step up, this inset piece was not finished and I was "trashed" by a negative laurel when I displayed it (2/3rds of the gold done) at an Artisan's display. Since then I've learned that I CAN document the technique for a cope - I've never said it would have been used on a dress. I have said that since the original was probably gilt brocade and I don't do such weaving, this is an instead. Having said that, I managed to face the piece and finish both parts in time to have it put together for display at this 12th Night. The gold is 10" wide on 40 count silk gauze - some rows are over 300 stitches. The blackwork is over 1 36 count done in Pearsall silk. The picture does not do it justice - it glows.


Lastly, I've been wanting to play with metal thread gobelin. My upcoming column is about the historical application of such. I had lots of problems finding a thread that would cover. Historically I was told that 371 or its gold equivalent was used. It doesn't cover. So many tried later I ended up using Kreinik very fine braid. Still don't like the thread, but it did work well. This is a pic of the flat. Now to make it up into the pincushion with mini tassels then photograph it for the column. This is 36 count - silk is tent over 1 and of course the gobelin is over 2.


Lots more in the works. I"ll update again soon.

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Quick Update

German goldwork band - Done!
Blackwork band to be combined with German goldwork band - Done!

In process the gobelin pincushion - half done.

Pics next week
Now back to the needle

PS my new 12thNight Cranach is really hot hot hot!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thursday, December 28, 2006

My Eyes are Crossing

Aside from the holidays and party preparation, I've been spending lots of time with needle in hand. First up was the plackett for the bodice front on my new German. Lots of pearls and coral on gold silk. I opted for slightly larger pearls and coral as the tiny seed size looked too small even at the 3' range. The large gives a better eye catch whether across the room or up close. The downside is the lack of detail, but... Yes I'll post pics, but right now the piece is at the dressmakers.

Next up was the surprise for my friend who is being laureled at 12th Night. Since she reads this blog, I'll talk more about it after 12th Night. Hope she likes it. It sure has bling!

Meanwhile car rides were dedicated to doing some filet lace. I have hemstitched the handkerchief. The lace is on 9 count net with #12 pearl cotton. I'm doing a pattern from the Vinciolo modelbuchen. At this point don't know how many pieces I'll get done before 12th Night. I do want to have at least 1 pattern done and inset to display. I'd really like to do it finer, but I can not find finer netting commercially. Did some looking at some period pieces. The number of thread passes is similar even if the count is larger (sigh).

Now I'm doing the blackwork band for my older german front piece. I also need to finish the goldwork band that goes above the blackwork band. The goldwork is on 40 count gauze and some rows are 300 stitches - a pattern from Quentel's modelbuchen. The blackwork band is on 36 count linen over 1. The blackwork pattern was adapted for me by Linn Skinner from another modelbuchen pattern.
I hope to finish them this weekend.

THEN I need to stitch the pincushion for my column - tent stitch in silk, 36 count, and silver metal thread gobelin for the background. I also want to do period style tassels with wooden cores and a fingerloop braided cord.

That said - back to stitching. Hope 2007 is a wonderful year for all of you and a peaceful one for the world.